On Mondays, the SM location is right next to a bustling village market, so the students will frequently go get banana “pancakes” (fried slices of banana) and pineapple. When you buy a pineapple there, it costs 400 shillings (~20 cents) and the vendors skin and slice it into quarters for you on the spot. (For price comparison, we [the students] can buy pineapple here in Mbarara for 2,000 shillings, or 1 USD. When we told our translator Becky, a local university student, about our great price, she shook her head and said that she pays 1,000 shillings.)
With this in mind, I had Claire bring me back an uncut pineapple this Monday. We can get it cut for us at Tank Hill (they take the pineapple and do it for us, even though my mom already conveniently taught me how to cut a pineapple over the phone), and we ate it with dinner today. Claire and I offered some to other people, but I’m pretty sure we ate a fair share of it.
Can you really blame us?? Yummmm pineapple-y goodness.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Monday, June 28, 2010
Lake Mburo
On Saturday, we took a day trip to Lake Mburo National Park. It’s approximately a two hour drive from Mbarara, so we left at 6 AM and came back around 8 PM, just in time for dinner.
[Becky, Claire, and me in front of the entrance sign! Photo credit to Claire.]
For the first time in my life, I saw zebras, impalas, buffalos (from a distance), elands, hippos, and monkeys in the wild. When we got there in the morning, we started with a "nature walk," a 1.5 hour guided tour where we tracked animals by foot. I think many people (myself included) expected some sort of trail, but we were literally trekking through brush and tall grasses. At one point during the walk, we paused in the grass to take some pictures of nearby impalas, and people started getting attacked by vicious looking ants. (Even those in pants got bitten, not just people wearing shorts or capris.)
[Luckily, none on me! Our guide told us to keep checking ourselves and other people. I had one small ant on me, but none of these monstrosities. Photo credit of Google Images.]
As you can see, they have HUGE heads and pincers. One girl was bleeding from her bites. Ugh, so painful looking.
After the walk, we had lunch (pineapple, watermelon, banana, and passionfruit tropical fruit salad for me--why can’t I just eat this for all my meals?) before going on a boat tour on the lake at 3:30 PM. We were supposed to go at 2 PM, but it literally took us two hours for us to get our food (slow service is pretty common here; they’re in no rush), hence the delay. We saw so many hippos from the boat! Also, we got surprisingly close to them--much closer than I had anticipated.
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[Screencap from one of my FlipCam videos.]
Lake Mburo was a great experience (even though I returned exhausted and subsequently slept in until 7:30 AM Monday... even after taking a nap Sunday afternoon). I’m looking forward to our safari at Queen Elizabeth National Park even more now!
More pics:
[Becky looking out over the lake.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[There was a monkey in our van! It was eating the muffins Gordon had given us to for breakfast before we got too close and it ran off. Photo credit to Claire.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[Becky, Claire, and me in front of the entrance sign! Photo credit to Claire.]
For the first time in my life, I saw zebras, impalas, buffalos (from a distance), elands, hippos, and monkeys in the wild. When we got there in the morning, we started with a "nature walk," a 1.5 hour guided tour where we tracked animals by foot. I think many people (myself included) expected some sort of trail, but we were literally trekking through brush and tall grasses. At one point during the walk, we paused in the grass to take some pictures of nearby impalas, and people started getting attacked by vicious looking ants. (Even those in pants got bitten, not just people wearing shorts or capris.)
[Luckily, none on me! Our guide told us to keep checking ourselves and other people. I had one small ant on me, but none of these monstrosities. Photo credit of Google Images.]
As you can see, they have HUGE heads and pincers. One girl was bleeding from her bites. Ugh, so painful looking.
After the walk, we had lunch (pineapple, watermelon, banana, and passionfruit tropical fruit salad for me--why can’t I just eat this for all my meals?) before going on a boat tour on the lake at 3:30 PM. We were supposed to go at 2 PM, but it literally took us two hours for us to get our food (slow service is pretty common here; they’re in no rush), hence the delay. We saw so many hippos from the boat! Also, we got surprisingly close to them--much closer than I had anticipated.
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[Screencap from one of my FlipCam videos.]
Lake Mburo was a great experience (even though I returned exhausted and subsequently slept in until 7:30 AM Monday... even after taking a nap Sunday afternoon). I’m looking forward to our safari at Queen Elizabeth National Park even more now!
More pics:
[Becky looking out over the lake.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[There was a monkey in our van! It was eating the muffins Gordon had given us to for breakfast before we got too close and it ran off. Photo credit to Claire.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
[Photo credit to Claire.]
Friday, June 25, 2010
Goat Roast: Pictures!
[Claire and Bob picking the corn.]
[Our 40 ears of corn, which cost us ~2 USD.]
[The goat meat being prepared.]
[The meat was placed on skewers for roasting.]
[Roasting! There was SO much meat... this was right when they began.]
[From L-R: Gloria, our sonographer, Fiona, the coordinator of SM from MMHF, and Sister Jackie, our midwife, at the goat roast.]
[Girls being silly!]
[Claire, me, and Lauren with the stunning landscape.]
[Princess!]
[A full moon in the Ugandan night sky.]My First Ever Goat Roast
June 24, 2010
Today after work, we went to the WSH surveyors’ house (those who are conducting the baseline survey for us) instead of returning back to Mbarara. Because we hadn’t had an opportunity to meet them yet, we’d decided upon a goat roast--like a BBQ but a much bigger deal in Uganda, since goats are relatively expensive here--to get to know them. In attendance were ourselves, the 20 surveyors, and people from MMHF who have been crucial to our work as well (Dr. Mugerwa, his brother James, Bob, Becky, Christine, Fiona, Gloria, Sister Jackie, etc.).
We all chipped in money to purchase three goats, although it ended up being way too much, especially since most of the girls in the group are vegetarian here or eat very little meat. Because there would have been little other food than goat and matooke there, we ended up U-picking corn from the field next to our health intervention location: 40 ears for 4,000 shillings (~2 dollars). The corn, once grilled, ends up tasting more like popcorn than what I think "corn on the cob" should taste like, but it’s still pretty good once you get past the initial hardness of the kernels.
What else happened at the roast? The girls fawned over a 7-month old baby named Princess, I actually tried a small piece of goat (about the size of my thumbnail), and I was forced to drink directly from a glass soda bottle (which you’re not typically supposed to do) because there weren’t any straws. Lauren, Claire, and I all cleaned the lip of our bottles with a handy sanitizer wipe though, so I think everything is going to be okay. Good purchase, Mom!
Pictures from the goat roast will be uploaded soon! We’re headed to Lake Mburo tomorrow; we’re departing early at 6 AM and should be back in the evening in time for the U.S. World Cup game. Expect to see a blog post on it next week!
Today after work, we went to the WSH surveyors’ house (those who are conducting the baseline survey for us) instead of returning back to Mbarara. Because we hadn’t had an opportunity to meet them yet, we’d decided upon a goat roast--like a BBQ but a much bigger deal in Uganda, since goats are relatively expensive here--to get to know them. In attendance were ourselves, the 20 surveyors, and people from MMHF who have been crucial to our work as well (Dr. Mugerwa, his brother James, Bob, Becky, Christine, Fiona, Gloria, Sister Jackie, etc.).
We all chipped in money to purchase three goats, although it ended up being way too much, especially since most of the girls in the group are vegetarian here or eat very little meat. Because there would have been little other food than goat and matooke there, we ended up U-picking corn from the field next to our health intervention location: 40 ears for 4,000 shillings (~2 dollars). The corn, once grilled, ends up tasting more like popcorn than what I think "corn on the cob" should taste like, but it’s still pretty good once you get past the initial hardness of the kernels.
What else happened at the roast? The girls fawned over a 7-month old baby named Princess, I actually tried a small piece of goat (about the size of my thumbnail), and I was forced to drink directly from a glass soda bottle (which you’re not typically supposed to do) because there weren’t any straws. Lauren, Claire, and I all cleaned the lip of our bottles with a handy sanitizer wipe though, so I think everything is going to be okay. Good purchase, Mom!
Pictures from the goat roast will be uploaded soon! We’re headed to Lake Mburo tomorrow; we’re departing early at 6 AM and should be back in the evening in time for the U.S. World Cup game. Expect to see a blog post on it next week!
Joga Bonito
"The world of the World Cup is the world I want to live in. I cannot resist the pageantry and high-mindedness, the apolitical display of national characteristics, the revelation of human flaws and unexpected greatnesses, the fact that entire nations walk off the job or wake up at 3 A.M. to watch men kick a ball."
-The Thinking Fan’s Guide to the World Cup
I love watching the World Cup
I discovered its joy in 2006, during the last tournament hosted in Germany. At the time, I was conducting research at MUSC and was often given free time by my mentor when we had to wait for a 2-3 hour incubation period. The first few times this happened, I wandered down to the cafeteria, per his suggestion, but finding only overpriced hospital food, I quickly bored.
Then, I discovered the TVs in a sitting area in front of the library. I rooted for whichever team I wanted (but ultimately fell for Germany), cheered when Jens Lehmann’s saves in the penalty shootout propelled Germany over Argentina, and reveled in the pureness of beautiful futbol.
Four years later, I’m in Africa as the World Cup tournament is being played on African soil for the first time. If I can’t be in South Africa itself, this is certainly the next best option. Our hostel, Tank Hill, plays the games on the television in the dining area, and we’ll frequently join Ugandans who flock from nearby to watch the 5 and 9:30 PM games.
A June 22 NYT article read:
But no worries. In the end, I’m just rooting for the beautiful game.
-The Thinking Fan’s Guide to the World Cup
I love watching the World Cup
I discovered its joy in 2006, during the last tournament hosted in Germany. At the time, I was conducting research at MUSC and was often given free time by my mentor when we had to wait for a 2-3 hour incubation period. The first few times this happened, I wandered down to the cafeteria, per his suggestion, but finding only overpriced hospital food, I quickly bored.
Then, I discovered the TVs in a sitting area in front of the library. I rooted for whichever team I wanted (but ultimately fell for Germany), cheered when Jens Lehmann’s saves in the penalty shootout propelled Germany over Argentina, and reveled in the pureness of beautiful futbol.
Four years later, I’m in Africa as the World Cup tournament is being played on African soil for the first time. If I can’t be in South Africa itself, this is certainly the next best option. Our hostel, Tank Hill, plays the games on the television in the dining area, and we’ll frequently join Ugandans who flock from nearby to watch the 5 and 9:30 PM games.
A June 22 NYT article read:
"Well before the tournament began, South Africa had arguably exhibited an overflow of optimism. A pre-tournament poll conducted for FIFA, the international soccer bosses, showed that one in eight South Africans thought their team would win the World Cup. Only 22 percent believed that the team would fail to advance beyond the first round."Unfortunately, it doesn’t look like African nations are doing that well, despite high hopes and an Africa United ad campaign ("Let’s go Africa. Let’s go 2010."). I was certainly rooting for Africa, although I’m a bit torn for the upcoming U.S.-Ghana game tomorrow.
But no worries. In the end, I’m just rooting for the beautiful game.
Twenty-One in Uganda
"One of the signs of passing youth is the birth of a sense of fellowship with other human beings as we take our place among them."
-Virginia Woolf
I had a wonderful 21st birthday! Early in the morning, both my parents and Adam called to wish me a happy birthday--pretty much the best gift I could have asked for, especially since I know they had to stay up later than usual to do it. As I’ve said before, I feel incredibly blessed to have people back home who love and are thinking about me.
The nice gestures didn’t stop there. Bean and Rachel surprised me with a beautiful bouquet of wildflowers in the morning, and the group treated me to dinner at one of Lake View’s restaurants. We stopped at a supermarket for ice cream on the way back to Tank Hill. Soooo good. The U.S. was also kind enough to finally score against Algeria in their crucial group stage match, so we’re advancing onto the next round of the World Cup! Unfortunately, we’re playing Ghana... the last African nation in the World Cup finals. I’m a bit torn, honestly. I want the U.S. to do well, but I was/am also rooting for Africa.
The only downside: Got my first mosquito bite of Uganda today. But no big deal! I still had a great day. Thank you to everyone who sent birthday wishes!
-Virginia Woolf
I had a wonderful 21st birthday! Early in the morning, both my parents and Adam called to wish me a happy birthday--pretty much the best gift I could have asked for, especially since I know they had to stay up later than usual to do it. As I’ve said before, I feel incredibly blessed to have people back home who love and are thinking about me.
The nice gestures didn’t stop there. Bean and Rachel surprised me with a beautiful bouquet of wildflowers in the morning, and the group treated me to dinner at one of Lake View’s restaurants. We stopped at a supermarket for ice cream on the way back to Tank Hill. Soooo good. The U.S. was also kind enough to finally score against Algeria in their crucial group stage match, so we’re advancing onto the next round of the World Cup! Unfortunately, we’re playing Ghana... the last African nation in the World Cup finals. I’m a bit torn, honestly. I want the U.S. to do well, but I was/am also rooting for Africa.
The only downside: Got my first mosquito bite of Uganda today. But no big deal! I still had a great day. Thank you to everyone who sent birthday wishes!
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Ninkunda (I Like)...
"Traveling is a brutality. It forces you to trust strangers and to lose sight of all that familiar comfort of home and friends. You are constantly off balance. Nothing is yours except the essential things--air, sleep, dreams, the sea, the sky--all things tending towards the eternal or what we imagine of it." –Cesare Pavese
Not surprisingly, I've found myself missing home--the familiarity of the people, customs, and foods--as my time here continues. So, I wanted to write about all the things I've been enjoying here to take my mind off what I might not like so much.
Some pleasures thus far:
1. Waking up in the morning to a rooster’s crow, interesting bird calls I’ve never heard before, or, even better, the call to prayer. What a magical sound. Unfortunately, I’ve only heard it once while we stayed in Kampala. We can hear it from Tank Hill in Mbarara, but I’ve just been exhausted and have slept too soundly thus far.
2. The fruit! Pineapple, watermelon, and bananas, oh my! I don’t think I’ve ever had pineapple this delicious in my life. I may just live off fruit the entire 9 weeks I’m here… I did try goat one night (ehh, not really my thing), but I’ve been mostly vegetarian here. I have the feeling that rice, beans, and potatoes are going to get old fast. P.S. I was totally let down by passionfruit. Our hotel in Kampala served us a delicious fruit medley, which contained passionfruit (or at least that’s what the girls and I deduced from the little seeds), so I was under the impression passionfruit was sweet and yummy. False. Super tart; same with the citrus. Papaya is yummy though, and so is avocado.
[Oranges in the market.]
[Passionfruit.]
3. How relatively cheap everything is. 1 USD is approximately 2,200 shillings. I got a litre of bottled water for ~25 cents in Kampala, and when we stopped for lunch in Masaka, two vegetable samosas cost ~80 cents. Not surprisingly, imported goods are expensive, like Jif (the peanut butter brand). I should have been smart like Lauren and brought a jar with me... alas.
4. Sleeping/hanging out underneath my bednet. It is pink and makes me feel like a princess. It also keeps me safe from mean mosquitoes, which brings me to my next "like"...
5. Ultrathon! What a great find--no bites thus far (one tick, but I guess that doesn’t count). Granted, it is the dry season here, but I’m pretty sure I’m going to be a loyal Ultrathon consumer for the rest of my life.
6. The ~1 hour car ride to Kashongi. Level of enjoyment varies depending on weather, dust, and mood, but I like looking out the window and having some time to collect my thoughts at the beginning and end of each day in the field.
7. The World Cup. Kinda self-explanatory. It’s in Africa; I’m in Africa. People here actually care; I care.
8. The hospitality and grace of the people here. Everyone is incredibly warm and respectful, and it has been an absolute delight to interact with Ugandans, from our drivers and Gordon at Tank Hill to our partners and colleagues on the intervention and even just the children who are always curious and excited to see us.
Not surprisingly, I've found myself missing home--the familiarity of the people, customs, and foods--as my time here continues. So, I wanted to write about all the things I've been enjoying here to take my mind off what I might not like so much.
Some pleasures thus far:
1. Waking up in the morning to a rooster’s crow, interesting bird calls I’ve never heard before, or, even better, the call to prayer. What a magical sound. Unfortunately, I’ve only heard it once while we stayed in Kampala. We can hear it from Tank Hill in Mbarara, but I’ve just been exhausted and have slept too soundly thus far.
2. The fruit! Pineapple, watermelon, and bananas, oh my! I don’t think I’ve ever had pineapple this delicious in my life. I may just live off fruit the entire 9 weeks I’m here… I did try goat one night (ehh, not really my thing), but I’ve been mostly vegetarian here. I have the feeling that rice, beans, and potatoes are going to get old fast. P.S. I was totally let down by passionfruit. Our hotel in Kampala served us a delicious fruit medley, which contained passionfruit (or at least that’s what the girls and I deduced from the little seeds), so I was under the impression passionfruit was sweet and yummy. False. Super tart; same with the citrus. Papaya is yummy though, and so is avocado.
[Oranges in the market.]
[Passionfruit.]3. How relatively cheap everything is. 1 USD is approximately 2,200 shillings. I got a litre of bottled water for ~25 cents in Kampala, and when we stopped for lunch in Masaka, two vegetable samosas cost ~80 cents. Not surprisingly, imported goods are expensive, like Jif (the peanut butter brand). I should have been smart like Lauren and brought a jar with me... alas.
4. Sleeping/hanging out underneath my bednet. It is pink and makes me feel like a princess. It also keeps me safe from mean mosquitoes, which brings me to my next "like"...
5. Ultrathon! What a great find--no bites thus far (one tick, but I guess that doesn’t count). Granted, it is the dry season here, but I’m pretty sure I’m going to be a loyal Ultrathon consumer for the rest of my life.
6. The ~1 hour car ride to Kashongi. Level of enjoyment varies depending on weather, dust, and mood, but I like looking out the window and having some time to collect my thoughts at the beginning and end of each day in the field.
7. The World Cup. Kinda self-explanatory. It’s in Africa; I’m in Africa. People here actually care; I care.
8. The hospitality and grace of the people here. Everyone is incredibly warm and respectful, and it has been an absolute delight to interact with Ugandans, from our drivers and Gordon at Tank Hill to our partners and colleagues on the intervention and even just the children who are always curious and excited to see us.
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